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Below are diagrams showing how I do jewels on my miniatures. How many shades you use on a jewel is usually dependant on how big the jewel is. The instructions below are for a large jewel such as the jewel in the farseer's helmet.
For smaller jewels, only about 3 or 4 shades of colour will be enough. For colours like red and green, yellow and white can be used to lighten the original colours. For other colours like blue, mixing yellow will be unsuitable because the mixture of these two colours, creates a new colour. For such colours it is better to lighten the original colour with a lighter version of the colour or just add white. Although, for diagramatic purposes, I've shown the colours in bands, the jewelled effect works better if the colours are blended in a little.
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The 1st step is to cover
the entire jewel in the lightest colour that you intend to use.
The 2nd step is to cover
most of the jewel with a slightly darker shade of the same colour
whilst leaving a thin arc of the 1st colour at the bottom.
The 3rd step is to cover
most of the jewel with a slightly darker shade than the 2nd colour
in a way that leaves a little arc at the bottom showing the 2 other
colours.
The 4th step is to use the
colour that is the main colour of the jewel to cover most of it
again. From this point on the bands of colour are thicker
than the lighter coloured bands.
The 5th step is to use a
darker shade of the main colour of the jewel to cover the top half
or third of the jewel as show in the diagram.
The 6th step is to mix the
main colour of the gem with a much darker colour (often black) to
make the last shade that you paint on, almost black. To help
blend the bands of colour together a thinned wash of ink that is
the same colour but a bit darker as the the colour used in step
4
The jewel is then finished
off with a small dab of white to create a highlight