Left Switch Pod

These four switches are labeled, Fog, DRL, TCC, and LL.

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Fog

This switch, with integral green LED, controls a pair of Catz driving lamps (when installed).

DRL

I have installed a custom-made parking lamp daytime running lamp circuitry. They function exactly as the GM parking lamp DRL’s. This switch, with integral red LED, arms the DRL circuit.

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TCC

This switch, with integral red LED, manually locks up the torque converter.

LL

This switch, with integral red LED, controls the line lock solenoid.

Right Switch Pod

These switches are labeled Fan 1, Fan 2, Auto 1, and Auto 2. They make up my "Total Fan Control" system.

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Primary Cooling Fan

"Fan 1" - Manual Turn-on.

"Armed 1"

Off - Turn-on at 200 deg F
On - Turn-on at 185 deg F

Secondary Cooling Fan

"Fan 2" - Manual Turn-on

"Armed 2"

Off - Stock Turn-on Temperature (243 deg F)
On - Derale Adjustable Fan Module (Set to Turn On at 195 deg F)
Right Switch Pod (Lower)

I have four more switches mounted on a custom-built panel immediately below the right lower edge of the instrument cluster. They’re labeled H2O, Knock, P, and TR.

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H2O

This switch arms the 100-psig Carroll Supercharging water pump. With the system armed, the pump is turned on by one of two methods; an adjustable Hobbs switch currently set at 3 psig boost, or a momentary push switch located between the AutoMeter gauges.

Knock

It has been experimentally shown that the majority of knock sensor retard is due to false signals (signals other than detonation). Therefore, most of the ECM retard hinders performance. Please see "The Doctor’s Step-by-Step Guide to Optimizing Your Ignition" by Dr. Christopher Jacobs for specific information. In conjunction with an adjustable timing module (which I have), optimum performance and fuel mileage is obtained by disabling the knock sensor and manually adjusting timing as needed. I do not take the time or trouble to do this in daily driving. The only time I disable the knock sensor is when racing.

This switch has a second function. When the ignition is off, this switch turns on the three underhood lamps.

P and T

I have a pair of 12-inch Hayden fans mounted in front of the radiator. A B&M racing transmission cooler is positioned between the passenger side fan and the radiator. The "T" switch turns on the passenger side fan, producing airflow through the transmission cooler. This fan is also turned on automatically at 185 deg. F. The "P" switch manually turns on the driver’s side fan, producing airflow through the radiator. There is no automatic control for this fan.

Rotary Knob

The rotary knob just to the left of the A/C controls (and next to the four switches described above) is an MSD adjustable timing module mounted on a custom built bracket (with custom knob). The markings indicate degrees of total timing at wide-open throttle.

Digital Air Temperature Gauges

Three Nordskog Digital Air Temperature Gauges (under smoked plexiglas in center console).

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Sensor Locations:

Left Gauge: In Custom Airbox
Center Gauge: Supercharger Discharge (Before Intercoolers)
Right Gauge: After Intercoolers

Bargraph Displays

Special Thanks: The following circuits were designed, built, tested, calibrated and installed by Tim Burgess, an Electrical Engineer at Raytheon Missile Systems.

Stand-alone Wide-Band Oxygen Sensor Circuit:

Includes a non-linear 30-LED bargraph display. Each LED represents a specific air / fuel ratio. Also, a wide-open throttle interface circuit was added This circuit switches the stock ECM from the stock narrow-band O2 sensor input to the far more accurate wide-band O2 sensor.

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Throttle Position Sensor Circuit:

Includes a non-linear 11-LED display. Also, there are two adjustable 12-volt outputs that can be used for various functions, i.e. A/C compressor cutout, nitrous engagement, etc.

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Bargraph Displays (Continued)

The LED’s are labeled, from left to right: PORT - CONV - TCC – WOT – P - 1 - 2 - TR – H2O - LL – LN - WB

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PORT & CONV

Air injection diverter valves (emissions). It tells me where the air is being diverted to. This is an excellent visual indicator of open/closed loop.

TCC

Indicates torque converter lock up.

WOT

A pair of flashing LED’s that indicate wide-open-throttle.

P, 1, 2 & TR

"P" indicates my driver’s side pusher fan is on. "1" and "2" indicates my factory primary and secondary fans are on. "TR" shows status of my passenger side pusher fan.

H2O

Two LED’s. The left LED shows the system is armed. The right LED indicates the water / alcohol mix is being injected.

LL

Indicates the line-lock and burnout rev limiter are activated.

LN

Indicates the launch rev limiter and launch timing retard are activated.

WB

Indicates the wide-band oxygen sensor is fully warmed up and functioning properly.

21-LED Linear Narrow-Band Oxygen Sensor Bargraph Display

Includes a linear 21-LED bargraph display (50mV per LED). Each LED corresponds to 50 millivolts, from zero to one thousand.

Tachometer

I successfully mated a V6 tach face (6,000 rpm redline) to a V8 tach. It wasn't easy. I wanted a tach redline that is representative of my shift points, which is 6,200 rpm. Please note that below some of the rpm values (i.e. 6,000 rpm), there is a smaller (in size) but higher (numerically) number. This is the corresponding supercharger rpm.